I love making people remember things through food. I’m always cooking something that brings me back to my childhood or my ancestors. In 2023, I won the Euro-Toques Young Chef of the Year competition, where I prepared a dish inspired by the memory of the sweetness of my grandmother’s carrots. To this day, I still haven’t tasted carrots like them.
My parents were sick when I was a young girl and I took on the role of cooking – beyond a form of care, it also became my creative outlet. Growing up in rural Ireland gave me a deep connection to land and a passion for local produce.
I’ve worked here in two stints, first under Vincent Crepel and now under head chef Lewis Barker who is a great support and is driven to create a work environment that maintains the values and standards of past kitchens, while bringing the empathy of a new chef. I get to develop some of the recipes with him.
I’m currently on pastry, though not a qualified pastry chef, but I have enough experience to step in wherever needed. I like moving between roles; there’s always something new to learn.
We’re always busy in the kitchen, but we still have the craic, as we say in Ireland. There’s a half-hour to relax, talk as a team, and eat staff food. We aim for a three-day weekend to rest and have balance, which is always a challenge for kitchens.
Another challenge is sourcing high-quality ingredients. Seasonality and supply make it tough, but you still have to meet the same high standard.
We serve 15-35 covers daily – there aren’t many kitchens like this in Ireland. It’s a three-hour dining experience with canapés, mains, and petit fours across four rooms and a garden, if weather permits. The open kitchen lets guests watch us cook and ask questions.
As a woman, if I hadn’t pursued my career as I did, I don’t think I would be where I am today. Kitchens are very male-dominated, but my love of food have driven me past anything that might have held me back. My passion has given me independence and opportunity, and there aren’t many passions that do that, without making a career out of them.
Lauren Hurrell
